How to draw the pattern

Steps:

1. A-B:Draw a 2" straight line from A TO B.




2. B-C: Shoulder measurement divided by 2 plus 0.5" constant.




3. C-D:From point C mark 1.75"below and this will give you point D




4. D-B:Attach point D to B.




5. D-E:Shoulder band[4"]




6. B-F:3" constant.sh-bracut and sh-blouse length is measured from point f not from point B




7. B-G:ragal line height




8. G-H:ragal line width




9. E-I:front neck depth




10. I-J:join I to J




11. D-H:attach points and find midpoint which is k




12. K:mark the midpoint of D-H




13. K-L:Draw a straight line from K to the line B-W to meet at L




14. L-M:Subtract 0.75" from the measurement in B-C and mark on the straight line K-L to give you the point M




15. D-M:Draw a straight line from D to M




16. M-N:From M draw a straight line to the line G-H to join at N




17. M-H:Draw a curved line from M to H




18. F-O:From the point F meassure straight down the measurement of sh-bust to arrive at point O




19. G-O:Extend the line from point G to meet at O




20. O-P:maeasure 5.25 inches and join o to p




21. P-Q:From P measure 1inch and mark Q.




22. P-R:From point p measure 1inch and mark R




23. P-S:From point P measure 1inch and mark S




24. F-W:From point F measure the lenght of the blouse and mark W




25. W-X:Front Waist measurement[See Calculations]




26. X-H:Join X and H




27. R-U:Draw a straight line for point R to meet the line X-H.That point becomes U




28. U-V:measure 0.75 inches from point u and mark point v on line x-h




29. V-R:Join point V and R




30. S-Y:From point S draw a vertical line to line w-x.that point becomes Y




31. Y-Z:from point Y measure 1.25 inches and mark Z




32. Y-Z':From point Y measure 1.25 inches and mark z'

From point 0 measure 0.75 inches and mark the dart point on line o-w

After marking point Q,R and S erase the line Q-P.

This is how you draw the pattern for the front part.

Front blouse pattern

Calculation

Here is a general template we will be using to create this pattern.All measurements are in inches.

Measurements:

Shoulder[sh]-[sh]:16"

Bust:38"[bust minus1.5]=38"-1.5=36.5

waist:30"
Shoulder to bust:[sh] to bust:11" [Refer to my earlier post to see how to measure]

Sh-bracut: 13.25"

Sh-blouse length:16". [You have to add 1" to allow for seem allowance so the measurement to be taking will be 17"]

Sleeve length:6"
Base of sleeve:12"

Front neck depth[FN]: 6"
Back Neck depth[BN]:6.5"

shoulder band:4"

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Calculation:

shoulder/2=16/2=8 plus a constant[0.5]=8+.05=8.5

Ragal line length:
sh/2=16/2=8"

Ragal line width:
bust measurement plus 8[constant] divided by 4=36.5 +8=44.5/4=11.1

Sh to bust=11" have to add 0.5constant=11 +0.5 =11.5
Sh to bra cut=13.25 have to add 0.5 constant=13.25+ .5=13.75
Sh to blouse length=16 have to add 1"=16+1=17


Waist[front]=waist/4 plus 0.5 constant plus 3" for dart=30/4 +0.+3=
7.5+0.5+3=11

Waist [Back]=waist /4 plus 0.5 constant=7.5+.5=8
length of dart=sh to bust minus 0.5 divided by 2=11-.5=10.5/2=5.25[this tells u the midpoint from which u have to situate the 3 darts.

sleeve calculation:

sleeve length:6+0.5[constant]+1.5[constant]=8

base of sleeve:12/2+0.5constant=6.5

Dart allowance

1. Bust measurement= 28"-32" Dart allowance= 1.5"
2. Bust =32"-36" Dart= 2"
3. 36" and above Dart=2.5"-3"

Dart allowance should not be below 1.5"

In my next post we will dwell into the calculaton part.

Things to take note of before calculation

When subtracting 1.5" from the bust measurement and the answer comes out as 34" or less the blouse pattern to be made is size SMALL. If the answer is 34 or 36" then the blouse pattern to be made is size LARGE.
A ragal line is the name used for the lines drawn horizontally and vertically when beginning to create the pattern.This will be illustrated later in the diagram.The vertical line indicates the height of the ragal line.
The height of the ragal line is measured differently for small and large sizes.For small sizes the ragal line height would be the bust measurement divided by 4.For lager sizes it would be the shoulder to shoulder measurement divide by 2.

Measurements to be Taken:

When taking the measurements wear a properly fitted Saree blouse or a bra.

• Shoulder[sh]:Measure from one shoulder to the other.
• Bust measurement:
• Shoulder to Bust[sh -bust]:measure from your shoulder to the highest point of your bust.
• Shoulder to Bra cut[sh-bra cut]:measure from your shoulder to the highest point of your bust and continue along the line to where your bra ends.
• Shoulder to Blouse length[sh -blouse length]: this measurement gives the length of the blouse . Measure from the sh-bust-bra cut-where you want your blouse to end. You only need to measure the front side. The back length can be determined by calculations discussed later on.
• Waist:Measure around your body from the point where you wanted your blouse length to end. This will give a tight fit.

For the Sleeve measurement:

• Sleeve length:measure how long you would like your sleeve to be.
• Base of sleeve:measure around the arm at the point your sleeve length ends.

Basic saree blouse:Introduction

The Saree blouse discussed here comprises of three darts and can be made both with front and back open.It could also be referred to as the corset blouse. I'm of the opinion that the back open Saree blouse is easier to make.The pattern making method described here takes into account the sewing allowances too.Therefore when cutting the pattern place it on the fabric and cut exactly around the pattern border.After cutting the pattern jot a 1/2" dotted line from the edge of the fabric for the sewing allowance.