Hello Everyone, First of all a very big thank you to all you subscribed and visited my blog. It keeps me motivated. Its been a long time since my last post but I finally managed to find the time to get the draft done for the bra cut blouse pattern.There are many different methods to drafting this pattern, one of which is what I'm going to explain in this post. Measurements taken are pretty much the same.However I would touch on that subject again. For those who have tried to make the basic blouse pattern would find this draft easy to do. If you haven't looked into the basic blouse /dart blouse draft , I would strongly recommend that you do. Another thing I would be adding to the post this time and I'm sure many of you would find it helpful is pictures.
In the front draft the AB part which is 2 " should be cut separately and not with the pattern. This will be later used as an extension to the left side which will have the spaces for hooks to attach on to. The right side will have the hooks. The right side overlaps the left side. In the left side hook loops are located near where the extension AB and the left mid side of the blouse meet. I will be posting a picture of this very soon for everyone to understand clearly. If you decide to have a front opening you do as explained above or if you wish to have back opening you apply the same concept to the back side.
When cutting the back blouse pattern on your fabric you have to do it two times.Once without the 2" extension and then with the 2" extension,since this is a blouse with the back opening. Also remember to flip the patten according to the right and left side.
When cutting the front blouse pattern you need to do it only once.Fold the fabric and place the front blouse pattern with the midside aligned with the fold of the fabric and cut along the pattern.To mark the darts I found that making slits through the pattern till the dart point ,allows me to insert the pencil to draw till the end point. Again flip the fabric and the pattern to the other side and draw the darts.Three in each side. The longer you make the blouse the longer the dart at the waist is going to be.
A-C: From point A measure 4.5" and mark point C .This is a standard measurement.
C-B: From point C measure [sleeve length minus 4.5"] =3.5"
B-F: From point B measure 1.5" and mark point F.This for the fold.
C-D:From point C measure [shoulder /2=8] and mark point D
B-E: From point B measure[base of sleeve /2 +0.5"=6.5"] and mark point E
A-D: Join point A and D
D-E: Join point D and E
H: Find the midpoint of line A-D and mark point H
I: Find the mid point in line H-D and mark point I
J: Now measure 0.5 inches from point H upwards in 90 degree angle and mark J
A-J-I: Now join point A ,J and I in a curved line
F-G: Measure 1.5" from point B upwards and then find the width from that point to line D-E. Use that measurement and measure from point F and mark point G. The idea behind in doing this is ; we want line E-G to align with line D-E when we fold the pattern at line B-E upwards.
The final step is to cut the pattern .Therefore you cut along line A-J-I-D-E-G-F-B-C-A.
Congratulations !You have made your first saree blouse pattern.You can now tweek the pattern to incorporate any kind of neck design or sleeve design to make your very own custom made blouse.